旅Around Tokyo

Mountains & Onsen

Hakone 箱根

Hot springs, art and views of Fuji over Lake Ashi

Prefecture
Kanagawa
From Tokyo
About 1.5 hours
Best time
October–November (autumn leaves), spring

A mountain resort in a volcanic caldera, Hakone is famous for its onsen ryokan, open-air art and a classic loop of mountain train, cable car, ropeway and lake cruise.

Highlights

Lake Ashi

Cruise the crater lake on a replica pirate ship; on clear days Mt Fuji rises behind it.

Hakone Shrine

Its red torii gate stands in the water at the lake's edge.

Owakudani

A steaming volcanic valley — try the black eggs boiled in the sulfur springs.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

Sculptures across rolling lawns, plus a Picasso pavilion.

Hakone Tozan Railway

A switchback mountain railway, lined with hydrangeas in June.

Onsen ryokan

Stay overnight in a traditional inn with its own hot-spring baths.

Getting there

  • Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto (about 85 minutes).
  • Or Tokaido Shinkansen to Odawara, then the Hakone Tozan Line.
  • The Hakone Freepass covers most transport in the area and the trip from Shinjuku.

Tips

  • Do the loop counter-clockwise early in the day to beat the crowds.
  • Ship luggage ahead or use the luggage service at Hakone-Yumoto.
  • The ropeway closes when volcanic gas levels or winds are high.

What to eat